The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice
Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show
The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro
(2:29) Topic Description
(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities
(8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better
(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness
(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement
(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred
(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful
(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement
(39:58) Self Expression via Movement
(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight
(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps
(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss
(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence
(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort
(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort
(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself
(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away
(01:13:54) Outro
Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Devin Dabney | Doing the Work
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Hueco Tanks Bouldering
Devin Dabney | Figuring It Out
Lor Sabourin | Dealing With Fear
Dirtbag State of Mind | Luke Mehall Interviews Kris Hampton
Kyle O‘Meara | Intentional Mentorship
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Smith Rock Sport Climbing with Justin Brown
BOARD MEETINGS | The Downgrading of Bibliographie from 15d to 15c
BOARD MEETINGS | Terrible Climbing Advice That’s Actually Great
Cody Kaemmerlen | Climb United
The American Climbing Project | Episode 2: The Great Equalizer (Special Preview)
Blake Cason, MS | Wellness and Habits for Climbing Performance
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | New River Gorge Sport Climbing with Jeremy Rush
MC Pete Woods | World Cup Commentating
When to Walk Away | Strategic Quitting
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Red River Gorge Sport Climbing
Climb Strong and Training Beta, LIVE at ICF 25 | Where to Start Training
Afterword, Acknowledgements, and a Bonus Chat with Brendan Leonard
Goals Not Met | Freedom and Transworld Depravity, with Lee Smith
Climb Better Faster | The Often Missing Piece, with Mario Stanley
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