The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers.
In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.
Find Taylor online at:
The Beta Angel Project
International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
Research mentioned in the episode:
Austrian Research Paper and Write Up
Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up
Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing
EXPERT | Rob Gray | The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | IRCRA Test Battery
Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylor’s Coaching?
(3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed
(10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable?
(12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research
(13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory
(15:37) Speed Climbing
(19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing
(30:32) Thematic Movement Learning
(47:40) Movement Assessment
(1:02:48) Teaching Movement
(1:05:22) ANNOTATION: Differential Learning
(1:08:19) ANNOTATION: Attractor Valleys
(1:16:03) How Much Does the Athlete Need to Know?
(1:20:58) ANNOTATION: Leading By Example
(1:22:48) Do Comp Style Climbs Translate to Outdoors?
(1:27:38) What Is Still Missing From the Research?
(1:32:55) Wrap Up
(1:35:06) Theme
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Ways to Salvage a Season
Listener Questions | Projecting, Tactics, and Training for Climbing After 40
Lockdown | Motivated or Not, with Special Guests
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
Listener Questions | How to Know When to Get Better vs. Get Stronger?
BOARD MEETINGS | Why Bouldering May Not Help Your Sport Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | Popular Climbing Trends We Like
BOARD MEETINGS | Why Am I Still Getting Pumped?
Matt Fultz | A New Breed
Brittany Leavitt | Listen + Teach
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons You Abandon the Training Plan
Yves Gravelle | For the Love of Training
Troy Fauteux | Try Harder
BOARD MEETINGS | Art of the Side Goal
Dr. Favia Dubyk | Survive to Thrive
Dr. Natasha Barnes | Pain Science for Climbers
Alex Megos & Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt
BOARD MEETINGS | Thanks A Milli
Bill Ramsey | A Philosophy of Sending
Dr. Jared Vagy | Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics
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