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Join Ads Marketplace to earn through podcast sponsorships.
Manage your ads with dynamic ad insertion capability.
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Earn rewards and recurring income from Fan Club membership.
Get the answers and support you need.
Resources and guides to launch, grow, and monetize podcast.
Stay updated with the latest podcasting tips and trends.
Check out our newest and recently released features!
Podcast interviews, best practices, and helpful tips.
The step-by-step guide to start your own podcast.
Create the best live podcast and engage your audience.
Tips on making the decision to monetize your podcast.
The best ways to get more eyes and ears on your podcast.
Everything you need to know about podcast advertising.
The ultimate guide to recording a podcast on your phone.
Steps to set up and use group recording in the Podbean app.
Episode 30 - Spokeshaves, Jointing Long Boards, Small Shop Dust Collectors, & Much More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife
Questions
Guy:
1) Hey guys! I Love the podcast and I've listened to every episode!
I'm currently building a simple kitchen island and am having an issue with the top. The top will be made up of three 1.5" thick X 7.5" wide X 42.5" long pine boards. I have a cheaper Jet jointer/planer combo machine and I can't get a good seamless joint between the boards right off the machine. I'm attempting to fine tune the joint by hand using a No. 4 hand plane, but just can't seem to get a gapless joint. In your opinion, is it possible to properly square up the edge of a 1.5" thick, 42" long board using only a No. 4 or is something like a No 7 the only way to go? Any help would be appreciated.
2) Hey guys,
I guess this is a question more for mr. Dunlap. In regards to your jessem stock guides; when do you find yourself using them vs not? For example what about pieces short enough not to catch both guides at the same time (where the first roller drops off before the second engages)? Or boards that are narrow to the point of a push stick being awkward. For example 3” or less? I’m a new convert and am loving them on wider stock such as plywood. Just not sure when else to use them. Thanks for the podcast. It’s the highlight of the week, and one saved for the arduous traffic of Los Angeles.
Tanc.
Sean:
1) Hey guys- I'm in the market for my first dust collector. I'm set on a canister filtr as my shop is in the basement. I'm torn between the Grizzly G0583Z - 1 HP Canister and the Grizzly G0548ZP - 2 HP Canister Dust Collector. I think Sean has the latter. My question is: Would the 1 HP collector be sufficient for a 620 sq ft shop using a one-tool-at-a-time setup? I don't see myself ever adding ductwork to every tool due to low ceilings. I plan on have dedicated shop vacs for tool like the miter saw, etc. I have 220V available but its at the opposite corner from where I want the collector to be, so I'm taking that hassle of extending that into consideration. The difference in cost is about $165 on Amazon (which is cheaper than directly from Grizzly when you consider $99 freight.
Thanks for your time. Keep up the good work!
2) Your preference, Western push saw or Japanese pull saw?
Huy:
1) Hey Guys,
I built my wife a table and I started using my hand plane to level everything out. Occasionally, the toe of the plane would dig into the work piece. After a lot of explicit language, I'd get it "fixed". Any idea what could be going on? If it matters, it's a Stanley No 4
2) I have never used a spokeshave but I want to get one for making on site templates for built ins. Would this type of work be appropriate for the $30-40 level Stanley or kunz spokeshaves? I would also like to get one for use in the shop. Is there a spokeshave that could handle both equally well, or is that a case for nicer set (curved and flat bottomed for the shop) ?
Social Picks
Sean: @darrell.peart
Huy: @kieselbachworkshop
2025-11-14
2025-02-28
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