Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out KAYA!
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
Check out Mad Rock!
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!
Check out Tindeq!
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoni
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones
(00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14
(00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a
(00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects
(00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA
(00:13:30) – Adrian’s lifestyle
(00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber
(00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing
(00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap
(00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh
(00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists
(00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context
(00:40:44) – Will’s impressive belay season
(00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending
(00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken’
(00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable
(00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress
(01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey
(01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b
(01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board
(01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming
(01:21:30) – More ‘Badman’ beta
(01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes
(01:29:09) – Beta depends on context
(01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’
(02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents
(02:10:06) – Street credit
(02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-
(02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders
(02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration
(02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone
(02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person
(02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is
(02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do
(02:57:57) – ‘Freerider’ in a day
(03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The Meaningful Life with Andrew G. Marshall
Heal, Survive & Thrive!
A Voice In The Darkness
جافکری | Jafekri
BPLUS بیپلاس پادکست فارسی خلاصه کتاب