Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau
(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip
(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych
(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard
(00:15:22) – Sleep
(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson
(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?
(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles
(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles
(00:27:34) – Deloads
(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body
(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead
(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs
(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”
(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor
(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing
(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips
(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12
(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15
(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage
(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica
(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?
(01:14:14) – Training on the replica
(01:22:21) – How to train on your project
(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?
(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip
(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles
(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?
(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?
(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17
(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit
(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar
(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps
(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit
(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders
(01:59:08) – Imposing demands
(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
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