Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!
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Watch the Video Interview:
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:28) – Topics covered
(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio
(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics
(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries
(00:16:21) – Stress shielding
(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries
(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries
(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos
(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position
(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers
(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception
(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises
(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis
(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis
(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age
(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important
(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints
(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?
(01:09:18) – Playing the long game
(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli
(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises
(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow
(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow
(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions
(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries
(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)
(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues
(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis
(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured
(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
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