Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way.
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Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-3
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:29) – The worst sport climbing I’ve been on, destroying my rental car, and having too high of expectations
(00:09:16) – Jesse’s experiences making weekend trips to Smith Rock
(00:10:29) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Have a good partner or crew
(00:11:38) – Steven’s Tip #1: Try to sport climb as much as possible leading up to the sport climbing trip
(00:13:12) – My trip to Rifle in 2018, and why it was successful
(00:14:30) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Prioritize the right skills before the trip
(00:15:30) – Jesse’s endurance/money analogy
(00:16:14) – A tip for how to practice and train for sport climbing on a spray wall
(00:18:38) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Be mindful of crag’s ethics and history when you travel to a new sport climbing crag
(00:19:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you have
(00:22:27) – Steven’s Tip #3: Be intentional with what routes you try
(00:23:21) – Bonus Tip: Leave the ground with purpose
(00:23:57) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Think about links on your project as their own goal
(00:25:40) – Steven’s Tip #4: Have a goal or an intention for every try
(00:27:29) – Jesse’s Tip #5: Dial in your snack game
(00:29:02) – Steven’s Tip #5: Do mileage, or try something that is hard for you, but don’t try to do both
(00:31:59) – Bonus Tip: If you are a boulderer primarily, be open-minded and give the routes time to grow on you 0:31:50 – The sunk cost fallacy, being okay with recon tries, and why you’ll probably get better at sport climbing over time
(00:38:35) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right clothing layers
(00:40:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not being specific enough with preparation before the trip
(00:43:19) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Getting redpoint blinders
(00:45:45) – The value of not trying your project on the last day of your trip
(00:48:11) – Some thoughts and tips related to onsighting
(00:50:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Letting the group derail your plans and keep you in your comfort zone
(00:51:31) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Not discussing your plans and intentions with your partner before the trip
(00:52:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Having too high of expectations
(00:53:55) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Endurance is important, but it’s secondary to actual sport climbing skills
(00:54:25) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be brutally honest with yourself about how much time you really have, and make your tries count
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck
EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Mustache Q&A, Highballing Near Misses, and Japanese Climbing Culture
EP 221: Keenan Takahashi — ‘The Gold Standard’, Learning From Limit Moves, and the Origin Story of ANTIGRAV
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
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