Hans Florine has held the speed record on ‘The Nose’ on El Capitan 8 separate times. He has climbed the route 112 times, with 100+ people. He loves ‘The Nose’ so much, he wrote a book about it. We talked about winning the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, his earliest ascents of El Cap, top 3 big wall efficiency tips, and the value of doing hard things.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hans-florine
Nuggets:
0:05:29 – Why Hans uses “exacting time” to schedule things, and respecting other people’s time
0:11:24 – Being a chameleon when traveling
0:12:52 – 182 laps up El Cap, and 112 ascents on ‘The Nose’
0:14:37 – Hans’ first speed climbing World Cups, and the first climbing World Championship in Frankfurt, Germany in 1991
0:24:34 – How European culture shaped Hans’ perception, and receiving international recognition for holding the speed record on ‘The Nose’
0:27:55 – Patron question from Ana: What are Hans’ thoughts on the evolution of speed climbing competitions, and different formats?
0:34:37 – Hans’ first trip up El Cap via the Salathe in 1986
0:41:09 – His first failed attempt on ‘The Nose’, and going for the speed record with Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider
0:48:15 – Hans’ favorite Peter Croft story
0:50:37 – A question from Craig DeMartino, and what it is about ‘The Nose’ that captivates Hans
0:54:02 – Some failure stories on ‘The Nose’
0:57:57 – How the Stove Legs got their name, and the haul cart with wheels
1:02:05 – Wrapping up the story of the first speed record with Steve Schneider
1:06:40 – Developing an obsession with the speed record on ‘The Nose’
1:12:16 – Biggest logistical and tactical improvements in speed climbing ‘The Nose’
1:19:04 – Writing the book on speed climbing, and going for the speed record with Alex Honnold
1:25:51 – Patron question from Christoph: Top 3 tricks for being efficient on a big wall route?
1:34:09 – The Tom Frost story, and how much water to bring on a big wall
1:37:12 – Hans’ perspective on the current record on ‘The Nose’
1:45:53 – How fast can The Nose be climbed?
1:48:03 – Will Hans try for the speed record again?
1:48:40 – Patron question from Henry: Has Hans’ attitude toward speed climbing changed after his accident? Does speed climbing become less sensible as one gets older?
1:56:25 – A question from Hazel Findlay, and the award Hans would give her
1:58:04 – Hans thoughts on free climbing El Cap, and an argument for climbing ‘The Nose’ “as free as can be”
2:04:49 – Hans’ time focused on onsighting in the 80s and 90s
2:08:55 – 8a.nu and plans for his time in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky
2:11:15 – Takeaways from climbing ‘The Nose’ with more than 100 different people
2:13:22 – Who has affected Hans most in his climbing
2:16:27 – A message from Craig DeMartino
2:17:50 – Patron question from Craig: Who is your greatest non-climbing influence and why?
2:19:31 – Ryan Reynolds
2:20:14 – Doing hard things, and the DHT Challenge
2:22:41 – Applying manufacturing experiences to climbing
2:24:34 – How Hans is making a living now with construction
2:26:31 – How to connect with Hans, and more about the DHT Challenge
2:31:17 – What Hans is excited about right now
2:32:20 – What is next for Hans Florine
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck
EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Mustache Q&A, Highballing Near Misses, and Japanese Climbing Culture
EP 221: Keenan Takahashi — ‘The Gold Standard’, Learning From Limit Moves, and the Origin Story of ANTIGRAV
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
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