Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameron
Nuggets:
0:06:31 – What they climbed on today
0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 2020
0:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering
0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering
0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew
0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days
0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d
0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d
0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?
0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder
0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?
0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US
0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion
0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’
0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?
0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up
0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)
1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?
1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up
1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers
1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?
1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch
1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)
1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering
1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles
1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering
1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?
1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip
1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career
2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V18
2:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s
2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave
2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career
2:17:33 – Flow state
2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing
2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
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