Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness.
*Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprez
Nuggets:
6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?
9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure
12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps
17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania
22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck
29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion
32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina
36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill
40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project
44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction
46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman
47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body
52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much
53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else
55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening
59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure?
1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve
1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France
1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with
1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure
1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need
1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name
1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?
1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements
1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up? How do you physically prepare for such an experience?
1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space
1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety
1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
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