In episode 274, Kestrel welcomes Michelle Zhu, the CEO & cofounder of Huue, to the show. In an effort to replace toxic chemical dyes in apparel, Huue are developing biosynthetic dyes — their initial focus is to provide an alternative to synthetic indigo.
“We are creating a biosynthetic solution that is a one-to-one drop-in replacement into the textile supply chain. We’re creating these bio-identicals that can minimize the footprint of production of these dyes and pigments, but without disrupting the supply chain process that is required to make the authentic look and feel of denim that everybody knows and loves.”
-Michelle Zhu
Are you familiar with biosynthetics? If so, do you understand what they are or how they operate? So often terms like this get thrown around in the *sustainability* space, without a lot of context or definitions. They are assumed to fall into the good box or the bad box, when yet again – there is a lot more information needed to understand the bigger picture.
So, here’s the super basics – biosynthetics are made of renewable materials, instead of being petroleum based. We often hear about them from a fiber stance, so fabrics made up of biopolymers from corn or sugar or other ingredients. But on this week’s show, we’re diving into more on how biosynthetics are being used for textile dyeing.
Today, the majority of our clothes are colored with synthetic dyes. If we look back, the first synthetic dye was accidentally discovered in the 1850s when an 18-year old chemist was searching for a treatment for malaria. And since then, they’ve gradually taken over due to their speed and efficacy.
But take indigo – the color that we align with denim. Today, every kilogram of synthetic indigo produced uses 75x the amount of petroleum. And it involves the use of dangerous chemicals like benzene, formaldehyde, and sodamide.
This week’s guest cofounded a company that’s leveraging biosynthetics to address the extreme toxicity across the textile dye industry. They’ve started with indigo blue, and are building one-to-one solutions that can be inserted directly into the current manufacturing infrastructure.
Quotes & links from the conversation:
“This Melinda Gates-backed biotech startup is growing bacteria that make sustainable dye for denim”, article in Fast Company
"How These Founders Are Detoxifying the Denim Industry--and Saving the Planet", article in Inc.
"Using synthetic biology platforms to clean up indigo dye-making", article in Axios
"Best Inventions of 2021 - Huue: Blue Jeans Go Green", article in TIME
Huue’s Website >
Follow Huue on Instagram >
S02 Episode 63 | THE NEW DENIM PROJECT + UPCYCLING WASTE INTO TEXTILES
S02 Episode 62 | THREAD, TIMBERLAND + RECYCLING WASTE SYSTEMS
S02 Episode 61 | GALERIA.LA, PERSONAL STYLE + CURATION
S02 Episode 60 | THE SUSTAINABLE APPAREL COALITION + QUESTIONING FASHION'S IMPACT
S02 Episode 59 | PATAGONIA, FAIR TRADE + THE FASHION REVOLUTION
S02 Episode 58 | EILEEN FISHER, FISHER FOUND + CLOSING THE LOOP
S02 Episode 57 | GLOBEIN, ARTISANS + THE SUBSCRIPTION BOX MODEL
S02 Episode 56 | STYLE LEND + THE ONLINE FASHION RENTAL MARKET
S02 Episode 55 | SLOW FOOD + FASHION, CROSS POLLINATION + THE QUESTION OF SCALE
S02 Episode 54 | GOOD ON YOU + APPS FOR CONSUMER ACTION
S02 Episode 53 | NATURAL DYES + BOTANICAL COLORS
S01 Episode 52 | WHITNEY BAUCK, FASHIONISTA + DIGITAL ACTIVISM
S01 Episode 51 | YOUTH FASHION SUMMIT + THE NEXT GENERATION
S01 Episode 50 | THINK DIRTY + THE SEARCH FOR CLEAN BEAUTY
S01 Episode 49 | FABSCRAP + REUSING TEXTILE WASTE
S01 Episode 48 | PANAH + MADE IN AFRICA
S01 Episode 47 | TIMO RISSANEN + ZERO WASTE DESIGN
S01 Episode 46 | THREAD CARAVAN + ARTISAN ADVENTURES
S01 Episode 45 | JASMIN MALIK CHUA, ECOUTERRE + AN INSIDER'S PERSPECTIVE
S01 Episode 44 | ANDREW MORGAN + THE TRUE COST
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