The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, and how she helps people do that.
While you might predict that strength training is one of the main tools Alex uses with her clients in this situation, it is not, as she says it is very rare to find a person who is climbing 5.11 who can not climb 5.12 with the strength they already have.
So while we spend a few minutes talking about strength training, you’ll find compelling evidence in this episode that that may not be your issue. Here are some of the other topics we discuss:
We talk about a lot in this episode, and I highly recommend it if you’re at the 5.10 or 5.11 level, or if you’re just not consistently climbing 5.12’s and you’d like to. Even if you are climbing 5.12’s consistently, I think a lot of her tactics will help you!
Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to break into 5.12 climbing. She will do 4 90-minute zoom calls starting January 17th all about what holds people back from sending 5.12 consistently and exactly what you can do to break your 5.11 plateau.
The cost is $147 (2-payment option available), and you’ll get all of the recordings of the zoom calls plus a bonus recorded coaching session with one of the participants.
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects
TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a
TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus
TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan
TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
The Bear Archery Podcast
Live Wild with Remi Warren
Cal’s Week in Review