Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever
(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.
(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing
(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects
(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup
(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies
(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?
(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi
(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style
(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?
(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?
(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’
(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger
(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?
(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c
(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?
(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes
(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’
(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta
(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’
(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’
(01:18:28) – Speed training
(01:20:02) – Recovery
(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it
(01:25:48) – Greedy
(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back
(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by
(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets
EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs
Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)
A Call from Ethan
EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling
EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism
Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)
EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show
EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing
Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core
Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)
EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief
EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature
Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)
EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)
EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training
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