Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever
(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.
(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing
(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects
(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup
(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies
(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?
(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi
(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style
(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?
(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?
(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’
(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger
(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?
(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c
(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?
(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes
(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’
(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta
(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’
(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’
(01:18:28) – Speed training
(01:20:02) – Recovery
(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it
(01:25:48) – Greedy
(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back
(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by
(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
EP 124: Karly Rager — Mental Strategies for Developing Focus, Learning vs. Performing, and Building a Coaching Business
EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money (Teaser)
EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers
EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing
EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
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