In Q&A 5, I tackle Patron questions about my own current hangboard training, how to fit everything in that we need to train, how to deal with bad body image, how my training and climbing have changed since starting the podcast, golden nuggets for newer climbers, where I found the theme song for the podcast, my van life internet setup, and much more.
*Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-5
Nuggets:
0:03:55 – Intro and updates
0:07:41 – My Personal Climbing / Training / Goals:
0:07:41 – Vincent: Current finger strength routine?
0:15:16 – Vincent: What does your current training cycle look like?
0:18:24 – Konstantinos: What are your European dream sends?
0:20:24 – Daniel: If you could send the next grade by sacrificing something pleasurable, what would it be?
0:22:20 – Christoph: How did it go trying to free Moonlight Buttress? Are you going back?
0:24:18 – Christoph: Plans for Yosemite this year?
0:26:00 – Matt: Top 3 go-to climbing shoes?
0:28:04 – André: What grade do you honestly feel is your absolute limit in bouldering?
0:29:27 – André: Do you miss some of the body strength exercises you used to do a lot? (Pistol squats, deadlift, etc.)
0:32:17 – Xander: How have these podcasts shaped the way you climb and train?
0:36:25 – Training / Climbing Advice:
0:36:25 – Konstantinos: What would be your golden climbing nugget towards newer climbers?
0:40:19 – Briana: How do you fit in all of the different types of training that seem necessary, without getting too fatigued?
0:44:34 – Neal: Verm mentioned curing his chronic elbow tendonitis by primarily training his shoulders. Do you have any insights into this?
0:47:42 – Nutrition / Body image:
0:47:42 – Savva: How do you deal with bad body image?
0:52:25 – Savva: How do you decide how to eat and rest without getting obsessive or spending a fortune?
0:54:37 – My Background / Route Setting:
0:54:37– Justin: Furthest you got from the WWU rec center and found tape on your shoe?
0:55:30 – Justin: Biggest positive change in commercial climbing gyms vs. when you started? Biggest negative change?
0:58:06 – Justin: Did WWU shape your climbing experience for the better? How do you think modern collegiate climbing experiences compare?
1:00:30 – Will: Did you have a favorite setting style as a route setter back in college?
1:01:52 – Will: Did you set at a bouldering or a rope climbing wall?
1:03:58 – Vanlife / Traveling / Lifestyle:
1:03:58 – Savva: How do you plan your climbing trips?
1:07:08 – Savva: Biggest expenses doing van life?
1:08:23 – Ainsley: Cultural differences between different climbing areas? Biggest takeaways from traveling?
1:10:46 – Briana: Is it difficult to find partners on the road? Any tips for finding partners for roped climbing?
1:12:38 – Fil: Any thoughts on how to fill your non-climbing time when living in a van?
1:15:08 – Skyler: Where do you like to climb during the summer?
1:16:06 – Joe: Favorite go-to dinners in the van?
1:17:42 – Liam: Internet setup in the van?
1:19:32 – Personal / Fun / Random:
1:19:32 – Casey: If you could have been a pro athlete in any other sport when you were young, what would you be?
1:20:57 – André: Top 2 climbing places outside of the US you would like to know and why?
1:22:17 – André: Who's is the freakiest climber you've seen perform live, and how was it?
1:25:32 – Savva: How does your family feel about climbing?
1:26:41 – Savva: What do you want to try / learn / experience / send next year?
1:29:35 – Savva: What’s the last book you enjoyed or found important?
1:31:22 – Vincent: As your fame grows, how do you see yourself changing?
1:33:21 – Vincent: What things you didn't think about when you started this venture have become important for you?
1:34:43 – Vincent: Are there any things that felt important when you started, such as training and climbing outdoors, that have changed in priority?
1:35:51 – Daniel: Are you thinking of settling down any time soon?
1:37:14 – Daniel: Are you dating now? Do you want kids?
1:38:44 – Darren: What are you grateful for and why did you stop asking that question?
1:41:12 – Podcast / Podcasting Goals:
1:41:12 – Taylor: How did you choose the theme song for the Nugget?
1:42:58 – Taylor: What podcasts does a podcaster listen to?
1:45:54 – Ainsley: When you say “I’ll link to that in the show notes”, are you just leaving yourself a reminder to do it when you listen back? Was this conscious when you started?
1:47:36 – Daniel: Have you ever had to postpone an interview because of your mood, mental health, or tiredness? Are there any interviews that you think you should have postponed?
1:53:34 – Christoph: What do you like best about how Tim Ferriss approaches podcasting? What do you like least?
1:56:12 – Linda: Does the finished podcast that we hear follow the actual order/flow of the interview in real life?
1:58:32 – Hunter: Do people recognize you at the crags? Do you find that you have to keep up a different persona/image while at the crags?
2:01:28 – Hunter: How do you view your progression in podcasting? And what do you think it takes for you to get to the next level (whatever that means to you!)?
2:03:30 – Wrap up
EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence
EP 172: Brittany Leavitt — Seeking Change in Climbing, Unmasking, and Top Lessons From Teaching Kids
EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap
BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution
EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System
EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age
Climbing Gold — Hot Henry
EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time
EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
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