The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up their projects in an efficient way.
He’s found that he’s been having a lot of conversations with clients lately about how to approach their route projects, now that it’s climbing season in a lot of places. This episode is dedicated to helping people approach hard projects (and sometimes even not-so-hard projects) to help keep yourself motivated and on the trajectory to a send.
Matt uses a checklist of links and accomplishments he wants to make on a route before the final checkbox of sending. He shares how he creates that list, depending on what kind of route it is.
He also talks about the following:
If you want Matt to help you with your own goals, whether they’re with bouldering or route climbing, he’s available for month-long commitments where he’ll talk with you over zoom and create a program for you and keep in touch with you via the TrueCoach app throughout the month.
He’ll help you get stronger overall and cater to your specific goals so the timing is right for you to send when it’s time to send.
Learn More about Working with Matt
TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment
TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers
TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes
TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy's 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries
TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us
TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports
TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c
TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d
TBP 087 :: Paige Claassen Spells Out How To Successfully Project A Route
TBP 086 :: How Paige Claassen Trained for Roof Climbing in Flatanger, Norway
TBP 085 :: Esther Smith - Neck and Back Injuries in Climbers
TBP 084 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
TBP 083 :: Maureen Beck Climbs 5.11+ with One Hand
TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's
TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions
TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan
TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send
TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers
TBP 077 :: The Best Supplements for Climbers with Shannon O'Grady
TBP 076 :: Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury
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