Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a professional climber from the UK. She is also a writer, speaker, and co-host of the Curious Climber Podcast along with Hazel Findlay. We talked about her early life, impermanence, flow state, learning to try really hard, how she made the switch from hard boulders to hard sport routes, what sets high-level climbers apart, and the decision to become a mom.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mina-leslie-wujastyk
Nuggets:
0:05:52 – Baby life
0:09:40 – How Mina and I met, and her road trip to the US in 2012
0:14:18 – Mina at age 25, and competing on the World Cup circuit
0:18:10 – Project mentality, quick sends, and unfinished business
0:21:02 – Patron question from Konstantinos, and Mina’s first gym and early climbing mentors
0:24:27 – Living in India as a kid and how that shaped Mina’s worldview
0:30:28 – Impermanence, and the lesson Mina learned from her dad as an early teenager
0:33:09 – Being exposed to both indoor and outdoor climbing as a kid
0:35:22 – Doing both route climbing and bouldering as a teenager, bouldering as social-climbing, and making the British team
0:38:03 – Mina’s first trip to Rocklands South Africa and more about her road trip around the US
0:40:14 – Bouldering in the South East (US) and climbing in the Red River Gorge
0:42:01 – Loving climbing, pushing too hard, and crashing
0:47:52 – The challenge makes the experience
0:51:55 – Flow and highballing
0:58:16 – How climbing ethics shape our experience
1:00:43 – Why do we seek flow?
1:03:12 – Tapping into our most primal selves
1:04:46 – An excerpt from Mina’s article: ‘Pushing It’, and British ascents
1:08:11 – Learning to try really hard, and the yin and the yang
1:12:52 – Unfinished business
1:16:28 – ‘Just Do It’
1:19:27 – What lead Mina to shift her focus to sport climbing
1:22:44 – Climbing the 70m ‘Totally Free 2’ in one pitch, and stashing candy in her sports bra
1:28:48 – How aerobic capacity training (Aero Cap) helped her transition to sport climbing
1:35:19 – What sets high-level boulders apart, and how good tactics make the difference
1:40:25 – What specific tactics Mina learned from her partner David, and a funny story
1:45:35 – What sets high-level sport climbers apart, and Mina’s experience on ‘Nordic Plumber’
1:49:20 – “Climbing isn’t just about being fit and strong, it’s about being clever and creative”
1:50:54 – Mina’s thoughts on returning to ‘Rainshadow’, and two bad accidents
1:57:52 – The decision to have a kid
2:03:52 – RED-S, and how her recovery led to the decision to have Isaac
2:07:26 – The best surprises with becoming a mom, and the miracle of pregnancy
2:11:13 – Question from Anna about training during pregnancy
2:15:58 – Studying nutrition, and thoughts on nutrition during pregnancy
2:18:22 – What led to starting The Curious Climber Podcast, and recommended episodes (linked in show notes)
2:23:54 – Wrap up
EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique
Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)
EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
EP 124: Karly Rager — Mental Strategies for Developing Focus, Learning vs. Performing, and Building a Coaching Business
EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money (Teaser)
EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers
EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing
EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
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