The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries.
Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented those injuries while still making the climber stronger.
This interview was really fascinating to me. I didn’t even know what an unlevel edge could possibly look like, but Tension Climbing has created a board with them and it’s called the Whetstone Board.
Here’s part of the description of it from Tension:
The top jug on the Whetstone is something new. The edge profile was designed to promote a more “active” grip and reduce “over-wrapping” the wrist. A series of “ergo-bumps” was included to both improve the comfort of the grip and also to act as an edge that can be draped in an open-handed grip to more evenly distribute force between each finger as an aid for rehabilitating some finger tweaks.
This is not meant to be a Whetstone advertisement and I have zero affiliation with them, just fyi. But what Tyler is talking about in the episode are those “ergo-bumps” you see in the photo above.
As always, I learned a lot from this episode and now I kinda want to get a Whetstone board…
About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
New Mini Podcast Series with Mercedes Pollmeier: Using Body Awareness in Climbing and Beyond
TBP 075 :: Madaleine Sorkin on Training for 5.13 Big Walls and Alpine
TBP 074 :: Climbing Training Success Stories with Mercedes Pollmeier
TBP 073 :: Margarita Martinez on Climbing Her First 13d at Age 58
TBP 072 :: How Danny Robertson Broke A 10-Year Plateau
TBP 071 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith on Elbow Pain
TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training
TBP 069 :: Jess Simmons on the Benefits of Yoga for Climbing
TBP 068 :: Alex Stiger on How Coaching Kids Made Her Stronger
TBP 067 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Breathing and Staying Calm
TBP 066 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith Talks About Shoulders
TBP 065 :: Beth Rodden on Big Walls, Injuries, and Becoming A Mom
TBP 064 :: Dan Mirsky on BD Bootcamp Success and Becoming A Trainer
TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers' Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research
TBP 062 :: Colette McInerney on BD Bootcamp and Living the Dream
TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist's Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care
TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder
TBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag Responsibly
Ask Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person Training
TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro
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