The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries.
Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented those injuries while still making the climber stronger.
This interview was really fascinating to me. I didn’t even know what an unlevel edge could possibly look like, but Tension Climbing has created a board with them and it’s called the Whetstone Board.
Here’s part of the description of it from Tension:
The top jug on the Whetstone is something new. The edge profile was designed to promote a more “active” grip and reduce “over-wrapping” the wrist. A series of “ergo-bumps” was included to both improve the comfort of the grip and also to act as an edge that can be draped in an open-handed grip to more evenly distribute force between each finger as an aid for rehabilitating some finger tweaks.
This is not meant to be a Whetstone advertisement and I have zero affiliation with them, just fyi. But what Tyler is talking about in the episode are those “ergo-bumps” you see in the photo above.
As always, I learned a lot from this episode and now I kinda want to get a Whetstone board…
About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols
TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst
TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals
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