James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/james-pearson
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:35) – Getting settled
(00:03:13) – Why I feel like I know James
(00:05:33) – Introducing the Redemption Story
(00:08:10) – Internet backlash
(00:10:05) – Coming full circle
(00:13:33) – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage’
(00:17:10) – The full story
(00:28:47) – Compassion for himself
(00:30:53) – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing
(00:36:05) – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey
(00:41:18) – Learning how to train
(00:46:33) – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months
(00:52:32) – Fun and performance
(00:53:23) – E grades
(00:56:16) – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again
(00:59:43) – Returning to ‘Rhapsody’
(01:02:10) – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure
(01:08:50) – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro
(01:17:10) – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody’
(01:24:53) – Searching for his hardest trad route
(01:25:59) – Making the Redemption film
(01:29:21) – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond
(01:35:47) – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage’
(01:37:15) – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD
(01:38:58) – Presenting E12 again 15 years later
(01:45:04) – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt’s thoughts about Walk of Life
(01:49:02) – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage’
(02:00:53) – Finding ‘Bon Voyage’
(02:08:08) – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage’?
(02:20:23) – Being more scientific about grades
(02:24:54) – Why give ‘Bon Voyage’ an E grade?
(02:38:44) – Becoming a dad
(02:47:47) – What kids taught him
(02:53:57) – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations
(02:58:17) – Tips for climbers with kids
(03:03:36) – James’ advice for his younger self
(03:11:15) – Climbing matters
(03:16:45) – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro’s mom
(03:23:36) – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage’, and Caro’s journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
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