The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
Maureen Beck | Adapting: Part 2
Maureen Beck | Adapting: Part 1
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk | Success and Failure
Dru Mack & Lee Smith | Mentorship
Sam Elias | Thoughtful Process
Emily Moore | The Climbing Wall Association Summit
GIVEAWAY | Oz Climbing Trivia
Susan Ashley Hunt | Meditation and Yoga for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons for Climbers to Strength Train, with Paul Corsaro
BOARD MEETINGS | Listener Questions: Roadtripping
2018 CWA Summit | Women In Climbing Panel, Live
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Reasons Why The Pros Are Better Than You
Brian Antheunisse | Breaking Through
Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol
Ayo Sopeju | Form and Function
Kyra Condie | Not So Reckless Abandon
Brittany Goris | Climbing Past Mythology
Esther Smith & Eva Lopez | Dealing with Climbing Injury
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls: Part 5, with Dru Mack
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls: Part 4, with Dru Mack
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