The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray, with Yasmeen Fowler
Don’t Squash the Banana | Commitment, with Yasmeen Fowler
Yesterday I Went Shopping. Talk is Still Cheap, with Taylor and Sarah Frohmiller
The Chains That Bind Us, with Lauren Abernathy
Training Wheels | How to Climb Harder Than the Other Newbs, with Sarah Kremer
Climb Better Faster | The Magic Bullet, with Jenn Bouma
If You Aren’t Making Progress, You’re Probably Making Excuses with Miles West
The Hard Truth, with Brittany Hoffman
Be The Catalyst
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 5 Ways to Shorten Climbing Sessions Without Sacrificing Quality
BOARD MEETINGS | Extra Effort vs. Overtraining
Caroline Wickes | Eating Disorders
A Look Back and What’s Next | Kris interviewed by Zach Alexander and Lana Stigura
BOARD MEETINGS | Is It A Weakness or Is It Just Hard?
Nina Williams | Sends and Suffers
BOARD MEETINGS | Climbing Terms We Don’t Like
Home Wall Listener Questions | Part 6
Home Wall Listener Questions | Part 5
Home Wall Listener Questions | Part 4
Home Wall Listener Questions | Part 3
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