The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, from our other podcast, Breaking Beta, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance:
Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport PerformanceAuthored by Marcin Maciejczyk, Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Magdalena Więcek, Jadwiga Szymura, Robert Rokowski, Zbigniew Szygula, and Ralph Beneke; published in Frontiers in Physiology in January, 2022.
They’ll explain the different energy systems and how they were measured in the study using three finger flexor muscle tests. They’ll consider how well these measurements can act as reliable performance indicators for climbing.
Special thanks to AJ Sobrilsky at Excel Physical Therapy in Bozeman and also the Climb Strong team for suggesting this paper!
New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please, tell all of your friends who have their energy system training totally dialed in but say “Take!” as soon as they are getting pumped, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied.
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Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
Welcome to Power Company Climbing
PSA | Is Your Climbing Chalk Ruining the Rock?
REWIND | Rannveig Aamodt on Coming Back Stronger
The Average Climber Podcast | Busting Training and Nutrition Myths
The Shape of Power | Level Up Your Climbing Skills
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing
Nature Untold | Eating Disorder Recovery
BREAKING BETA | Are Repeaters the Best Hangboard Protocol for Climbing Endurance?
BOARD MEETINGS | Performance Shortcuts That Might Stunt Your Growth (Bonus Episode)
Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community
Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture
Emily Holland | Rediscovering a Love of Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | How To Make the Most of a Board Session
Veronica Baker | The Climbing Initiative
Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full Time Coach
Introducing: Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast
A Letter to Alex Johnson
Andy Leung | Routesetting as Both Creative Outlet and Career
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Sport Climbing Tactic
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Bouldering Tactic
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