The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
You’ve heard of the SAID principle, right? S-A-I-D: Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. You’ve heard of it. And you thought that it meant simply that to get better at climbing, you have to climb on boulders that look just like the climbs you do outside, right?
If that was you, you were in the majority.
But you were wrong.
Is climbing pulling straight down on edges? Not always.
Is it compressing on slopers? Not always.
Is it jumping from grip to grip? Sometimes.
Is it moving slow and precise. Pretty often, actually.
Is it full-crimping? Half-crimping? Open hand? 3 Finger Drag? Middle 2? Back 3? Mono? Crosley? Pinch? Back-stepping, drop-kneeing, twisted, square, toe-hooking, heel-hooking, edging, smearing, blah blah blah…
Well, It’s all of these things. And thousands more things. It’s too much. So today, we’re going to learn a little more about what specificity actually means.
In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.
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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors
BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History
TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes
BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic
REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity
TAPED TIPS | Connect the Dots: Where Climbers (and Coaches) are Going Wrong
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
TAPED TIPS | 3 Tips for Training for Climbing Trips
REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations
The Struggle Climbing Show | Tactics
REMIX | FAILURE : How Quitting More Leads to Bigger Sends
REWIND | Paul Piana on Mentorship, Partnership and Big Dreams
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