The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta.
In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez:
authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019.
They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!
*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:
From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.
Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
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If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
Welcome to Power Company Climbing
PSA | Is Your Climbing Chalk Ruining the Rock?
REWIND | Rannveig Aamodt on Coming Back Stronger
The Average Climber Podcast | Busting Training and Nutrition Myths
The Shape of Power | Level Up Your Climbing Skills
BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing
Nature Untold | Eating Disorder Recovery
BOARD MEETINGS | Performance Shortcuts That Might Stunt Your Growth (Bonus Episode)
Josh Muller, Jordan Jasper, and Nic Nolet | Building Community
Aman Anderson | Coaching for Culture
Emily Holland | Rediscovering a Love of Climbing
BOARD MEETINGS | How To Make the Most of a Board Session
Veronica Baker | The Climbing Initiative
Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full Time Coach
Introducing: Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast
A Letter to Alex Johnson
Andy Leung | Routesetting as Both Creative Outlet and Career
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Sport Climbing Tactic
BOARD MEETINGS | The Worst Bouldering Tactic
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