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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Sports:Wilderness

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

2023-04-19
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A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on the podcast. He has a lot to offer."

Turns out this was his second--not first--14c, which I found out in my interview with him, but everything else Sam said about Thomas was spot on, and I was psyched to reach out to him for an interview.

Thomas is a 36-year-old emergency medicine physician and father of 3 children from Louisville, KY who's been climbing for around 20 years. After talking to him for a while, I realized he is SUPER scientific about everything he does in climbing. This is no surprise because he's quite an overachiever in his academic/professional life as well. 

He's published a bunch of academic papers, he was chief resident at the University of Louisville Department of Emergency Medicine a while back, and WHILE he was doing that, he started a medical device company, Inscope Medical, and was VP of Innovations. He also completed an IronMan while he was an intern resident.

So he's an ambitious person, to say the least, and that means he has less time than some of us for climbing and training. 

Only getting outside climbing around 10-15 days per year, and focusing all of that time on very hard projects, he has learned that his training and all of his days outside have to be hyperfocused and specific.

He takes us through his training program, including how he trains aerobic capacity, power, power endurance, and strength. He also talks about his research (he's also a researcher!) on the use of a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) to figure out what food fuels him best, and at what times of day.

He's currently doing some experimentation with Sam Elias with a CGM, and Thomas and I talked about having a part 2 to this discussion to go more in-depth about that and how he uses other monitors like the Whoop in his every day life and training. More to come on that, though.

This interview and our talk afterward actually inspired me to get a Whoop myself (no affiliation, but check it out if you're interested in biodata).

Oh, and we also talked about how he rehabbed not one but two pulley ruptures and came back stronger afterward.

I loved this talk - it was super inspirational on all levels - and I hope we hear a LOT more from Thomas in the coming years. He will be an asset to the climbing community to take us to the next level in training scientifically, like so many other mainstream sports have already done.

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More Episodes

TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy
2021-07-14 803
TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training
2021-06-09 1.1k
TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females 
2021-04-28 712
TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport
2021-04-15 422
TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life
2021-03-11 420
TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering
2021-03-08 816
TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind
2021-02-08 446
TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35
2021-01-20 736
TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
2021-01-07 728
TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling
2020-12-23 782
TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating
2020-12-09 492
TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach
2020-11-11 355
TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health
2020-10-28 280
TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing
2020-10-14 338
TBP 156 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Hip Injuries
2020-10-07 592
TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
2020-09-30 673
TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition
2020-08-24 475
TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women’s Specific Training and Nutrition Needs
2020-08-12 541
TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing
2020-07-29 340
TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers
2020-07-15 421
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