Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hill
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video
(00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique
(00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo
(00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose
(00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out
(00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet
(00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people
(00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French
(00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship
(00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian
(00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now
(00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose
(01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey
(01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience
(01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts
(01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming
(01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose
(01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch
(01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free
(01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it
(01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon
(01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse
(01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index)
(01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers
(01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s
(01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart
(01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path
(01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days
(02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber
(02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear?
(02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today?
(02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon
(02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women?
(02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move
(02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored
(02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork?
(02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries?
(02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential?
(02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world
(02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done?
(02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages
(03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France
(03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on
(03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn!
(03:11:01) – Lynn’s plans for Hueco
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
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