Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyliger
Nuggets:
0:06:01 – Camping iterations
0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction
0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story
0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking
0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends
0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy
0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics
0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment
0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing
0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff
0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance
0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel
0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work
0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused
1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis
1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope
1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset
1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel
1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling
1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco
1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year
1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength
1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule
1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity
1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice
1:38:27 – The eyeball story
1:58:16 – Spain
2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace
2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love
2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business
2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)
2:19:56 – How to find a good PT
2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing
2:29:35 – Wrap up
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
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