Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the future of the climbing industry.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
ClimbWell Retreat:
climbwell.co/retreat-rifle
Use code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount!
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christine-deyo
Nuggets:
2:30 – Christine’s dad, and falling in love with bouldering
4:44 – Why Oregon?
6:02 – Studying biochemistry, unemployment, and discovering route setting
9:38 – The Nightly Business Report on PBS
11:58 – Christine’s early route setting education
14:26 – How route setting qualifications have evolved, and what Christine looks for when hiring a route setter
18:57 – Three notable chapters in Christine’s evolution as a route setter
28:36 – What makes a good setter?
34:33 – The circuit system at the Bouldering Projects
36:33 – How circuits work in Fontainebleau
41:22 – How grades work within circuits
44:23 – Combining the circuit system with the training boards, and improving at climbing aside from strength
47:10 – How Christine uses the circuit system for training purposes
50:45 – Patron question from Tyler: What are your thoughts on parkour-style setting and balancing that with movement found on real rock?
58:16 – Patron question from Joe: Are there ways to get setters around the world to collaborate more?
1:03:17 – Patron question from Tim: Where do you draw inspiration from when setting routes? (Christine’s collection of note cards.)
1:07:30 – Creativity can be learned, creating constraints, and route setting challenges/games
1:13:01 – Tonde’s email, the responsibility of setters, and the role of diversity in route setting
1:20:31 – Questions from Tonde: What value do female setters bring to a setting team? Why bother with diversity?
1:26:28 – More questions from Tonde: Is setting art? Where is setting going? The future of setting for competitions?
1:30:45 – The role route setters play in competitions
1:44:52 – What is the value of route setters in the climbing industry?
1:47:50 – Safety in route setting
1:53:06 – Setter salaries, ages, and turnover
1:56:54 – How we move setting forward as a profession
2:02:03 – Christine’s tips for taking care of yourself as a route set
2:09:04 – Christine’s career, and what’s next
2:14:19 – Learning to set dynos
2:19:55 – Gratitude
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Coon Hunting University Podcast
Cal’s Week in Review
The Orvis Fly-Fishing Podcast