Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn
Nuggets:
2:30 – The other side of the mic
4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing
7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music
10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world
11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought
12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming
16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story
20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner
24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health
29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo
30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching
32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)
37:06 – Neely’s diet
39:06 – Chocolate
40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food
44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)
47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?
50:34 – Probiotics
53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program
55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog
56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success
1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing
1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit
1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast
1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content
1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls
1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery
1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves
1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information
1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough
1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective
1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions
1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette
1:28:36 – Children vs. house
1:29:26 – Kids
1:32:36 – Willa and projecting
1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?
1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge
1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag
1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams
1:39:56 – Gratitude
1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
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