Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutou
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training
(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests
(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology
(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing
(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training
(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach
(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?
(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing
(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music
(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates
(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris
(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?
(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture
(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing
(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions
(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy
(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath
(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS
(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup
(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing
(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?
(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers
(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson
(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?
(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions
(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training
(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention
(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game
(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
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