The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols
TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst
TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals
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