The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a
TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
The Bear Archery Podcast
Live Wild with Remi Warren
Cal’s Week in Review