The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 174 :: Caroline Treadway - The Film "Light" and Her Own Eating Disorder Struggles
TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)
TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase
TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn
TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy
TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training
TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females
TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport
TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life
TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering
TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind
TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35
TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling
TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating
TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach
TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health
TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing
TBP 156 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Hip Injuries
TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
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