Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out AG1!
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
Check out Rumpl!
rumpl.com/nugget
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!
Check out Rocky Talkie!
RockyTalkie.com/Nugget
Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wright
Nuggets:
0:03:56 – Ady’s breakfast, and serendipitous timing
0:05:56 – Ady’s first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting
0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes
0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes
0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber
0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things
0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country
0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation
0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping
0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her
0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from
0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity
0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn’t get to have
1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her
1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them
1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music
1:10:57 – Mom
1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience?
1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting
1:28:17 – Ady’s goal to make routsetting more accessible
1:31:20 – Ady’s climbing goals, and her style
1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs
1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style
1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene
1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis
1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing
1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery
1:52:06 – “It’s really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes
1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship
1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City
2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year
2:06:38 – Loving most of New York
2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady
2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people
2:17:07 – Skateboarding
2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb
2:24:47 – Practice makes better
2:29:38 – Believe and validate
2:32:58 – The clubhouse
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
The Alone Podcast
Live Wild with Remi Warren
The Dirtbag Diaries