Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!
Check out Athletic Greens!
athleticgreens.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Frictitious Climbing!
frictitiousclimbing.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!
Check out Arc'teryx!
arcteryx.com
Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be
Check out Chalk Cartel!
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hill
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video
(00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique
(00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo
(00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose
(00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out
(00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet
(00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people
(00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French
(00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship
(00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian
(00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now
(00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose
(01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey
(01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience
(01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts
(01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming
(01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose
(01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch
(01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free
(01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it
(01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon
(01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse
(01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index)
(01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers
(01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s
(01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart
(01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path
(01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days
(02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber
(02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear?
(02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today?
(02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon
(02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women?
(02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move
(02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored
(02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork?
(02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries?
(02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential?
(02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world
(02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done?
(02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages
(03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France
(03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on
(03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn!
(03:11:01) – Lynn’s plans for Hueco
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast
EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
The Alone Podcast
The Dirtbag Diaries
Live Wild with Remi Warren