Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall
Nuggets:
3:35 – The cellar
6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?
11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength
14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience
18:19 – What Tom did to get strong
23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders
28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits
37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training
45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?
49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles
54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?
59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?
1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?
1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?
1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?
1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?
1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work
1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show
1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel
1:16:02 – Gratitude
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
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