Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall
Nuggets:
3:35 – The cellar
6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?
11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength
14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience
18:19 – What Tom did to get strong
23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders
28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits
37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training
45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?
49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles
54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?
59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?
1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?
1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?
1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?
1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?
1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work
1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show
1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel
1:16:02 – Gratitude
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
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