Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall
Nuggets:
3:35 – The cellar
6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?
11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength
14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience
18:19 – What Tom did to get strong
23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders
28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits
37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training
45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?
49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles
54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?
59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?
1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?
1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?
1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?
1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?
1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work
1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show
1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel
1:16:02 – Gratitude
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
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