The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in general.
This conversation’s purpose is to bring some difficult topics into the light and hopefully to help climbers understand each other better, have more tools to use with each other in sticky situations, and to–more than anything–help us all have an amazing and safe time climbing outside with each other.
Here’s what we talked about:
Communication
a. Who’s climbing when
b. For how long
c. Permission to join bouldering crew
d. Brush holds
e. Beta sharing desires
f. Encouragement desires
Taking up space
a. Yard sale
b. Loud conversations
c. Taking long time to get ready when there’s a queue
d. Talking to belayers
Impact on others
a. Smoking
b. Music
c. Screaming performatively on climbs
d. Wobbling
e. Yelling at ppl for waiting for a route you’re currently on
f. Dogs
I hope this conversation sparks conversations of your own with your climber friends!
TBP 193 :: How Bobbi Bensman Is Still Climbing 5.13 at 58
TBP 192 :: How My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on Navigating Training Options if You're in a Plateau
TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery
TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays
TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Training and Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development
TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger
TBP 182 :: How He Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job
TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus
TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing
TBP 178 :: Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session
TBP 177 :: Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers
Neely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven Dimmitt
TBP 176 :: The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing
TBP 175: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
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