The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in general.
This conversation’s purpose is to bring some difficult topics into the light and hopefully to help climbers understand each other better, have more tools to use with each other in sticky situations, and to–more than anything–help us all have an amazing and safe time climbing outside with each other.
Here’s what we talked about:
Communication
a. Who’s climbing when
b. For how long
c. Permission to join bouldering crew
d. Brush holds
e. Beta sharing desires
f. Encouragement desires
Taking up space
a. Yard sale
b. Loud conversations
c. Taking long time to get ready when there’s a queue
d. Talking to belayers
Impact on others
a. Smoking
b. Music
c. Screaming performatively on climbs
d. Wobbling
e. Yelling at ppl for waiting for a route you’re currently on
f. Dogs
I hope this conversation sparks conversations of your own with your climber friends!
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a
TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan
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