The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in general.
This conversation’s purpose is to bring some difficult topics into the light and hopefully to help climbers understand each other better, have more tools to use with each other in sticky situations, and to–more than anything–help us all have an amazing and safe time climbing outside with each other.
Here’s what we talked about:
Communication
a. Who’s climbing when
b. For how long
c. Permission to join bouldering crew
d. Brush holds
e. Beta sharing desires
f. Encouragement desires
Taking up space
a. Yard sale
b. Loud conversations
c. Taking long time to get ready when there’s a queue
d. Talking to belayers
Impact on others
a. Smoking
b. Music
c. Screaming performatively on climbs
d. Wobbling
e. Yelling at ppl for waiting for a route you’re currently on
f. Dogs
I hope this conversation sparks conversations of your own with your climber friends!
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TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols
TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst
TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals
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