The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up their projects in an efficient way.
He’s found that he’s been having a lot of conversations with clients lately about how to approach their route projects, now that it’s climbing season in a lot of places. This episode is dedicated to helping people approach hard projects (and sometimes even not-so-hard projects) to help keep yourself motivated and on the trajectory to a send.
Matt uses a checklist of links and accomplishments he wants to make on a route before the final checkbox of sending. He shares how he creates that list, depending on what kind of route it is.
He also talks about the following:
If you want Matt to help you with your own goals, whether they’re with bouldering or route climbing, he’s available for month-long commitments where he’ll talk with you over zoom and create a program for you and keep in touch with you via the TrueCoach app throughout the month.
He’ll help you get stronger overall and cater to your specific goals so the timing is right for you to send when it’s time to send.
Learn More about Working with Matt
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects
TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a
TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus
TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan
TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger
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