It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-benn
Nuggets:
0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder
0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors
0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:26:21 – The boys' skin
0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip
0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home
0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes
0:42:56 – Getting hooked
0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast
0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects
0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte
0:58:41 – Brother dynamics
1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports
1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?
1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s
1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei
1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line
1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations
1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength
1:26:16 – Board gods
1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades
1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard
1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing
1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists
1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?
1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses
1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses
1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses
1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses
1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs
1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs
1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam
1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs
1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs
2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 17
2:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop
2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 2012
2:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse
2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)
2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations
2:19:24 – Three more goals each
2:24:07 – Airstar
2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands
2:32:16 – These boys are the future
EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers
EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter
EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle
EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique
Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)
EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
EP 124: Karly Rager — Mental Strategies for Developing Focus, Learning vs. Performing, and Building a Coaching Business
EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money (Teaser)
EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers
EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing
EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching
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