It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-benn
Nuggets:
0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder
0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors
0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:26:21 – The boys' skin
0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip
0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home
0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes
0:42:56 – Getting hooked
0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast
0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects
0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte
0:58:41 – Brother dynamics
1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports
1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?
1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s
1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei
1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line
1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations
1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength
1:26:16 – Board gods
1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades
1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard
1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing
1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists
1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?
1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses
1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses
1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses
1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses
1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs
1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs
1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam
1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs
1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs
2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 17
2:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop
2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 2012
2:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse
2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)
2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations
2:19:24 – Three more goals each
2:24:07 – Airstar
2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands
2:32:16 – These boys are the future
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
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