Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the future of the climbing industry.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christine-deyo
Nuggets:
2:30 – Christine’s dad, and falling in love with bouldering
4:44 – Why Oregon?
6:02 – Studying biochemistry, unemployment, and discovering route setting
9:38 – The Nightly Business Report on PBS
11:58 – Christine’s early route setting education
14:26 – How route setting qualifications have evolved, and what Christine looks for when hiring a route setter
18:57 – Three notable chapters in Christine’s evolution as a route setter
28:36 – What makes a good setter?
34:33 – The circuit system at the Bouldering Projects
36:33 – How circuits work in Fontainebleau
41:22 – How grades work within circuits
44:23 – Combining the circuit system with the training boards, and improving at climbing aside from strength
47:10 – How Christine uses the circuit system for training purposes
50:45 – Patron question from Tyler: What are your thoughts on parkour-style setting and balancing that with movement found on real rock?
58:16 – Patron question from Joe: Are there ways to get setters around the world to collaborate more?
1:03:17 – Patron question from Tim: Where do you draw inspiration from when setting routes? (Christine’s collection of note cards.)
1:07:30 – Creativity can be learned, creating constraints, and route setting challenges/games
1:13:01 – Tonde’s email, the responsibility of setters, and the role of diversity in route setting
1:20:31 – Questions from Tonde: What value do female setters bring to a setting team? Why bother with diversity?
1:26:28 – More questions from Tonde: Is setting art? Where is setting going? The future of setting for competitions?
1:30:45 – The role route setters play in competitions
1:44:52 – What is the value of route setters in the climbing industry?
1:47:50 – Safety in route setting
1:53:06 – Setter salaries, ages, and turnover
1:56:54 – How we move setting forward as a profession
2:02:03 – Christine’s tips for taking care of yourself as a route set
2:09:04 – Christine’s career, and what’s next
2:14:19 – Learning to set dynos
2:19:55 – Gratitude
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
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