The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries.
Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented those injuries while still making the climber stronger.
This interview was really fascinating to me. I didn’t even know what an unlevel edge could possibly look like, but Tension Climbing has created a board with them and it’s called the Whetstone Board.
Here’s part of the description of it from Tension:
The top jug on the Whetstone is something new. The edge profile was designed to promote a more “active” grip and reduce “over-wrapping” the wrist. A series of “ergo-bumps” was included to both improve the comfort of the grip and also to act as an edge that can be draped in an open-handed grip to more evenly distribute force between each finger as an aid for rehabilitating some finger tweaks.
This is not meant to be a Whetstone advertisement and I have zero affiliation with them, just fyi. But what Tyler is talking about in the episode are those “ergo-bumps” you see in the photo above.
As always, I learned a lot from this episode and now I kinda want to get a Whetstone board…
About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects
TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a
TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus
TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan
TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger
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