Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make.
Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returns
Nuggets:
0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds
0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects
0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you
0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business
0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing
0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card
0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes
0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action
0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt
0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan
0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself
0:50:24 – Bad days happen
0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip
0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured
1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention
1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan
1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses
1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing
1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong
1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap
1:51:02 – Wrap up
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
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