Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make.
Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returns
Nuggets:
0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds
0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects
0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you
0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business
0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing
0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card
0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes
0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action
0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt
0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan
0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself
0:50:24 – Bad days happen
0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip
0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured
1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention
1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan
1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses
1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing
1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong
1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap
1:51:02 – Wrap up
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast
EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind
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