Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau
(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip
(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych
(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard
(00:15:22) – Sleep
(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson
(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?
(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles
(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles
(00:27:34) – Deloads
(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body
(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead
(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs
(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”
(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor
(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing
(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips
(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12
(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15
(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage
(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica
(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?
(01:14:14) – Training on the replica
(01:22:21) – How to train on your project
(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?
(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip
(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles
(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?
(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?
(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17
(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit
(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar
(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps
(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit
(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders
(01:59:08) – Imposing demands
(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast
EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind
Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser)
EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence
EP 172: Brittany Leavitt — Seeking Change in Climbing, Unmasking, and Top Lessons From Teaching Kids
EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Coon Hunting University Podcast
Cal’s Week in Review
The Orvis Fly-Fishing Podcast